How about a mix

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Question: What is the best way to make it easier for a family of four to take back to back showers?  1. Install a larger water heater.  2. Make your teenage daughter live elsewhere.  3. Install a thermostatic mixing valve. 4. Any or all of the above.  No, the answer does not necessarily HAVE to be #2!  The answer probably is #4, although we don’t recommend relocating family members.  The answer is both 1 and 3, and there are a few variables which will determine which one would be best for you.  The most costly solution would be to simply replace your water heater.  Of course, this would only make sense if it were fairly old (over 8-10 years in most cases).   There is however a less costly alternative to replacing the entire tank, and that would be to install a thermostatic mixing valve and turning up the temperature on the water heater.  By doing this, you are increasing the BTU’s, or stored energy,  inside of the tank and you are actually “stretching” the capacity of the heater.  Yes, it is still the same volume, but it now requires less hot water from the tank to get to the temperature you desire at the taps.  While it is possible to simply turn the water heater up without a mixing valve, this is a very dangerous practice, and is never advised.  The risk can present itself very severely, especially if you have an older home without pressure balanced shower valves.  Second and third degree burns are a very real possibility.  A thermostatic mixing valve (TMV) has an inlet for the hot water, an inlet for the cold water and a mixed outlet.  Installing this device is a MUST if you are ever to turn your water heater above 120 degrees.  The mixing valve will prevent the higher temperature water stored inside of the tank from ever reaching the taps, and your skin.   

Although this topic is focused on increasing the capacity of your water heater for enjoyment purposes, there is however another, more important reason for doing so.   Legionairres disease is mistakenly thought to be uncommon.  This is mainly because of misdiagnosis’ and unreported cases.  Many times the disease only strikes a few at a time, and rarely get the publicity of other ailments that sicken many at a time.   Legionairres disease is caused by the strain of bacteria known as legionella.  Legionella breeds very aggressively in stagnant water temperatures between 95 and 115.  This means if your water heater is only set to 115-120, it will be well within the breeding range most of the time as the temperature dips 10-20 degrees until the heater “calls” for more heat.  Installing a thermostatic mixing valve and turning up your tanks temp above 140 degrees will help keep your family safe, and in the shower longer!    

This is a relatively simple job for an experienced plumber, and will definitely be money well spent. 

Kohler K-13601 Thermostatic Mixing Valve
Kohler K-13601 Thermostatic Mixing Valve – To purchase click on the image above.
You can count on this thermostatic mixing valve and all Kohler supplies to keep your fixtures at optimal performance. The valve mixes hot and cold water to allow for a wide range of temperature selections or fixed settings. Solid brass construction ensures years of reliable use. Kohler K-13601 Thermostatic Mixing Valve Features: Solid brass construction ensures years of reliable service Mixes hot and cold water allowing for a wide range of temperature selections or fixed settings Kohler Lifetime Limited Warranty.

Balancing act, there’s more to your valve.

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There are many simple things in life that we all take for granted.  Having light at the flick of a switch, information at the click of a mouse, and a nice hot shower to name a few.  When these relatively simple conveniences do not function as we wish, we are reminded once again as to how nice they make our lives.  In the case of the hot shower, there are a few things that can go wrong.  The most common problem is that they simply do not shut off all the way and leak or drip a little.  This will not be cause for too much concern, as it doesn’t affect your hot shower in any way.  The most annoying problem always has to do with the balancing spindle.  The balancing spindle is located inside your shower valve along with the on/off cartridge. Depending on what manufacturer you have, it is either all one piece with the cartridge, or it is separate from the cartridge.   Companies such as Delta and Moen incorporate the balancing spindle right along with the on/off mechanism.  Other companies such as Kohler, American Standard and Pegasus, have balancing units that can be taken out and replaced separately.  

The function of the balancing spindle is to prevent those dreaded toilet flush, scalding shower scenarios.  On earlier tub/shower valves, when the cold water had a pressure drop, from a flushed toilet for example, the temperature could potentially become scalding.  This is because the ratio of hot and cold gets thrown off due to the lack of cold water feeding the valve briefly.  A newer pressure balanced tub/shower valve will not allow this situation to happen.  It has an internal “spindle” that can freely glide back and forth, and compensate for any pressure differentials.  Eventually, just like anything else plumbing related, this spindle can go bad, and usually get stuck. When it gets stuck or goes bad, one of two things usually happens; there will either be little to no water coming out of the valve, or it will vibrate your pipes so bad you will think there is a jackhammer going off somewhere in your house. 

If your shower is not performing the way you’d like, or it is performing a little too well (making music in the walls), give us a call so you can start enjoying your shower once again!

Wax rings -What to avoid

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The other day we received a call from a very frustrated homeowner.  She had a toilet on the main floor that was leaking down into the family room in her basement.  Normally this wouldn’t be too big of a cause for concern.  Unfortunately, she had already paid to have it fixed 3 times by other plumbers.  While this was a little intimidating accepting a job that three other plumbers had failed to correct, it was tugging at my curiosity.  After inspecting it from below (removable ceiling tiles are great!), we determined it to be a bad seal at the wax ring.  Once the toilet was pulled, there were three red flags that stood out.   

The first was that the flange was too low.  The correct position for a closet flange is to be on top of the finished floor.  Sometimes this is not the case due to a new floor having been installed.  If the flange does end up being too low, the correct fix is too raise it up with flange extenders.  These are thin Frisbee like piece that stack on top of the flange and each other to bring the flange up to the proper height.  If the flange is flush with the finish floor or just barely above, it is acceptable to use a thicker wax ring.  The problem in this house was the flange was below the finish floor and they attempted to use a thicker wax ring.  This resulted in almost no squish of the wax, and a weak seal.  

The next problem we saw had to do with the flange itself.  At some point the cast iron flange and elbow in this house was replaced with pvc.  This is usually a good thing, except the plumber did not use an acceptable flange.  The new pvc flange that had been installed was designed to fit INSIDE of the 3″ pvc, instead of the outside like it should have been.  This gave it sort of a “shelf” right where it accepts the discharge of the toilet.  The problem is that that when the water was hitting the “shelf”, it was most likely causing a lot of unnecessary splashing and eroding of the wax seal.  

The third problem, and the most common problem we see, has to do with the wax seal itself.  While the wax rings with the plastic “horn” seem to make a lot of sense and appear safer, they actually cause more problems than they solve.  The plastic horn disrupts the water in exactly the same way that the shelf was with the bad toilet flange.  When the toilet is flushed and the water goes rushing through the wax seal and flange, it hits the plastic horn and causing a lot of excessive splashing around the wax.  In due time, it will eventually cause a leak.  There is no need for the plastic horn, ever.  A basic wax ring is all you will ever need (if you have a good flange).  

Since the homeowner in this did not have an ideal flange, we used neoprene toilet rings instead of wax.  This will ensure that the wax is not washed away and caused to leak by the excessive splashing.  Yes, it is true, time will have to tell on this one, but in the meantime, I will sleep very well.      

Bad things happen in 3’s

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One of the trickiest problems to tackle in plumbing is fixing an old 2 or 3 handle faucet.  While these faucets, if kept in good condition, work very well, they are dangerous and illegal.  The reason for this is that they are not pressure balanced.  This means that the hot and cold inlet feeds are completely independent of each other.   The reason this is unsafe is because the cold water being mixed with the hot water in the tub or shower can actually lose pressure slightly when another fixture such as a toilet, shower, or wash machine is being used somewhere else in the house.  When this happens, the water can become very hot, even hot enough to scald instantly.  Anybody with a 2 or 3 handle faucet in their home knows exactly what i’m talking about.  On a pressure balanced single handle faucet (not all single handle faucets are pressure balanced), there is a balancing spindle inside of the valve that keeps the incoming pressure constant and will not allow for drastic changes in temperature.  

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3 Handle Faucet

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The first thing you need to determine is if your faucet is leaking or running.  If it is coming out of the spout like it should but won’t shut off, it is running or dripping.  If it is coming out of the handles, it is leaking.  If you are brave enough to proceed, you will need a few tools.  Don’t forget to shut your water off, and keep in mind, there is no turning back once you dive into this project.  It is all or none because you cannot turn the water back on with the stems out.   You begin by removing the handles on the stems.  If they are “frozen” in place you may need a set of handle pullers.  Once you have removed the handles, you will now need to remove the stems.  

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Removing the stems will be much easier with a set of stem wrenches.  If the stem was leaking at one of the handles, you may be able to simply get away with tightening the packing nut.  The stem wrenches will also make this possible.  If you cannot tighten it to the point of stopping the leak, you will need to have the stem repaired or replaced.  If the water was not leaking at a handle, but instead was running out of the spout, you have a few options.   The two things that make the water stop running are the seat and washer.  The valve stem goes in and out with a washer attached to the back end and it comes to rest on the valve seat in the closed position.  If it is continuing to run, it either has a bad seat or bad washer or both.   

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To remove the seat located inside the valve body, you will need some sort of seat removal tool.  There are a few different styles available that all work well.  Over time the brass seat can become “pitted”.  When this happens it does not allow the washer to make a proper seal.  If the stem is in good shaped, you can simply replace the seat and washer.  If the cradle of the stem that holds the washer is in bad shape, you should replace the entire stem (and don’t forget the seat).  Remember to always replace the stem in the OPEN position.  

With the proper tools at your disposal, a little courage and a plumber you can trust on speed dial, you will be able to fix your own two or three handle faucet.  

Best Wishes!

Shower Doors

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Are you tired of cleaning or replacing that disgusting shower curtain liner every few months?  If you havn’t done this lately, or havn’t thought about it lately, you probably should take a look at it and see for yourself just how mildewy and moldy it is.  A new shower door would be much easier to maintain and clean. 

A new shower door would also help save your floor.  With a shower curtain and liner, it is almost impossible to keep all of the water inside of the shower.  This results in water escaping out of the corners and running down the side.  Over time, the water will slowly start to wreak havoc on your floor, no matter what type you have.  It will also make your wall and trim damp and mushy and eventually ruin it.  Once again, go ahead, take a look.  This will also lead to more mold and mildew. 
A shower door, when properly installed, will keep the water in the shower, where it belongs.  This will keep your bathroom in better shape, and help you to avoid a dangerous fall. 

Most shower stalls do not have an overhead dome light.  This makes for a very dark and gloomy feel.  A shower door will allow much more light to enter, and make for a better, more refreshing shower. 

Shower doors come in a wide variety of styles, colors and glass types (yes, you can even choose your glass!).  If you are updating,  a shower door would be the perfect compliment to a new paint job and new fixtures!

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Oil Rubbed Bronze Clear Glass Bypass Shower Door

Pranks to pull on the apprentice! shhhhhh….

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Yesterday morning, as I was installing some new plumbing, I picked up a piece of pipe that was a tad shorter than I needed.  This prompted me to think of the old construction industry standby, the pipe stretcher.  Depending on what trade you are in, or what you are doing, you may have also heard of the board stretcher, the tub stretcher, or the wire stretcher. 

I got to thinking about all the other, (and better), jokes and pranks that we have played on the apprentices, and on each other over the years.  Hopefully this will bring a smile to the face of some, and not stir up too many bad memories in others. 

The list of tools that all good journeymen will send their apprentices to look for include the solar powered flashlight, the adjustable metric crescent wrench, the left-handed hacksaw, and the glass hammer.  Remember, some of these may seem very foolish and obviously non-existent, but when a brand new green horn is focusing very hard on what the journeyman or master is telling him, these things do slip through the cracks of common sense. If you do happen to find a left-handed hacksaw, or you just settle on the more conventional right-handed version, do not be fooled into cutting any pieces of pipe over 120″.  Most of our pipe comes in lengths of 10′(120″).  I think the record for number of different ten footers that a helper has picked up (while looking for one that measures 122″) before catching on to our very funny little joke is at 4. 

Now, if you are going to use these tools, you will need a tool box to put them in.  Hopefully someone has not taken all of your tools out, screwed your box to the floor and put the tools back in.  If you happen to brake your level, you may have to go to the store to get more “bubble water”.  You may need some special supplies for the job you are working on which could include sky hooks, fallopian tubing, or ice making solution.  If your teacher sends you to Helen Hunt or Helen Waite for either of these materials, you have been duped twice.  If you did fall for any of this and actually got into your car or truck to head to the store, don’t be alarmed if you hear a “new” noise coming from what seems like your tire, but is actually your drive shaft.  A very large twist tie put onto the drive shaft may be one of the best.  I have actually witnessed somebody drive down the road very slowly with the door open for a good 5 minutes trying to diagnose the problem.  If your car or truck won’t go anywhere, you may want to check for cinder blocks underneath and a guy sitting in the sky lift laughing. 

When you get back from your trip to the store, and your coworkers are wrapping up the job.  You may be asked to do a couple of minor tasks.  If the drinking fountains are all set, you should go around and fill them all with a bucket of water.  Hopefully you didn’t forget the 5 gallon bucket of steam from the supply house to fill the boiler with.  After you have filled the drinking fountains, you should check the kitchen sink for leaks, but watch out for a rubber band on the sprayer.  That one isn’t limited to the job site, as some of our wives will attest to. 

Best wishes, and feel free to share your favorites!

I just feel the need to vent!

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Plumbing Vent
One of the most confusing aspects of plumbing, for the average person, AND for a lot of professional plumbers, is where, how and what is a vent.  Let me start simply by telling you that the pipe or pipes penetrating your roof, is most likely a plumbing vent.  There may be a similar pipe up there that could be an exhaust for your furnace or water heater, but most likely it is a vent for your plumbing system.  Every plumbing system must be correctly vented to be safe and legal.  The main purpose of the vent or vents within your house, or any other building, is to prevent the possible siphonage of the P traps that keep the sewer gas out of the structure.  The P trap is the U shaped pipe under all of your fixtures, or built into the toilet itself.  This is designed to stay full of water, and therefor “trap” the sewer gas behind it and not allow it to enter you home. Sewer gas can be anywhere from a stinky annoyance, to as much as a toxic danger.   Without properly placed and installed vents, it is very possible that these traps can either be siphoned out by other fixtures, or by the fixture itself while draining.  Vents must be installed properly and at a precise location, or they will not do the job they are intended to.  Vents also serve other functions in the system, such as allowing fixtures to drain better, and to regulate positive and negative pressure balances, especially in larger building with very tall waste stacks.   The relatively recent introduction to AAV’s (air admittance valve) has definitely changed the way plumbing systems are installed, but not usually for the better.  AAV’s are a little device which can serve as a vent, but does not have to penetrate the roof.  These will allow air to enter when needed  (relieving negative pressure), but they will not allow the sewer gas to escape.  AAV’s have a very real drawback though, and that is that they cannot relieve positive pressure.  These devices were invented and designed with the intent of solving some very tricky plumbing venting dilemmas.  Unfortunately, since they are code approved, they are also vastly over used and abused.  A “real” vent through the roof is always the best way to install a plumbing system. 

All Area Plumbing LLC

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Wet Vent System

My oh my, what a tall throne you have

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Have you ever wondered why the toilets in commercial buildings are taller than your toilet at home? Have you ever wished you could have one of those high rise commodes in your own bathroom.  The answer is YES!  Yes you can!  The reason they are in commercial buildings is simply because they are required to be there by the Americans with Disabilities Act.  These toilets are not exclusive to commercial settings, they are just mandatory there.  If you would like the convenience and comfort of a throne fit for a king right in your own home, there is nothing stopping you from doing so.  These taller toilets are very appealing to people that struggle to sit down and stand up on a conventional height water closet.  The elderly, people with hip or knee problems, or active athletes who frequently have sore legs are prime candidates for a taller upgrade.  Although these comfort height toilets are very appealing to most adults, they are not small child friendly.  Remember, this will be an extra 2″ for small children to try and climb aboard, or for small boys to have to rise above.  As any parent of a small boy can attest to, you may not want to give these sharp shooters any added degree of difficulty. 

Best Wishes!